Formulation 101.

Formulating is basically like cooking. You have to accurately measure each ingredient, mix things at the right speed, heat it and/or cool it to the right temperature and more. When we receive a formula from a customer to scale up their recipe to industrial size the first thing we will ask for is to see the formula in percentages. This data is then converted into percentages so that any amount or batch size can be made upon those percentages.

Formulas should add up to 100%. For liquid-based products that contain water, as water is the solvent, it is usually used to make the formula add up to 100%. For example, if all ingredients excluding water total to 20%, the water will be 80%. This is because 20 plus 80 is 100.

The below mentioned are all of the parts that makeup a formula. If you understand the basic pieces then formulating will become much easier for you.

Recipe vs Formula.

A recipe is a set of instructions used for preparing a product. The purpose of a recipe is to relay a record of precise ingredients, amounts needed and the way they are combined. Recipes utilize, but are not limited to, cups, tablespoons, and pinches.  Measuring with measuring cups and teaspoons is okay if you would like to simply make your own stash of body butter but to step and repeat and have a viable product you will need a formula, not a recipe.

The formula is basically your “blueprint” on how to make your product. Within your formula its makeup consists of ingredients, percentages as well as specifications of your product to get consistent shelf stable consistency. For all your ingredients to take shape in the form you imagined, there plays an invisible symphony of chemistry and physics. Formulations are more than just simply mixing a bunch of ingredients. You need the chemistry; in this case we will call it “the sauce”. Without “the sauce” it would be called a “mixture” versus a formulation.

FORMULA TEMPLATE

Keys to Success.

When done right, formulas can alleviate inconsistencies within your product.

  • You are making real products for real consumers / clients. It is important that you establish and understand every step of what you're doing, why you're doing it, and what the function is of each ingredient, whether it be related to stability, aesthetics or both.

  • It is imperative to be accurate in your lab measurements when you’re making a formula. Inaccurate measurements can have an impact on your formula structure, its stability and its aesthetic.

  • Learn to follow safety protocols, including wearing your lab coat, gloves, hair net and goggles.

    NOTE: When disposing chemicals also be mindful of what you’re mixing. Will this acid/base reaction be extremely exothermic and cause a unpleasant/harmful reaction?

  • Taking accurate and succinct notes of your experiments is a very important skill so you can go back and see your progress on previous formulations. Taking good notes is also important for GLP (good laboratory practices) and GMP practices (good manufacturing practices).

  • It's best to start good habits of taking care of your glassware and instruments now and keeping your work area neat. You don’t want to conduct an experimental design with dirty labware. This can result in you later finding that you've contaminated your product. Inaccuracy can give you the wrong pH or odor, or even lead to instability or a not so pleasing aesthetic.

    1. Wear a freshly laundered lab coat over clean clothing; safety goggles; sterile or sanitized gloves; shoe covers; rated face mask or shield.

    2. Have freshly washed hands no matter how clean you believe your hands may be, it's important to wash just before applying gloves and always sanitize your gloves after putting them on to remove any possible cross contamination from the application process.

    3. Sanitize all equipment before every use. Even though it was washed after the last use it needs sanitation now because the environment it was stored in has contaminants that may settle on equipment.

    4. Use a freshly sanitized utensil with every use. Never move from one product to another using the same utensil, without washing and sanitizing to avoid the potential for cross contaminating one product from another.

    5. Always sanitize (if needed) and seal your ingredient container(s), including the lid, between uses to avoid environmental contamination and excess air introduction. It's important that no matter how clean you were in the dispensing process you always wipe down the container rim and inside down to product after each use. Always transfer product to smaller, sanitized, containers to avoid reaching too far down into the container.

    6. Never add any dispensed product back into the main batch to avoid the potential for cross contamination.

    7. Unless otherwise and specifically indicated, never store bases refrigerated to avoid the introduction of moisture through condensation. All bases should be stored cool, dry, and protected from heat and light.

  • This ties in with safety, and it's important to understand which containers you can dispose chemicals into and the proper way to dispose them. Sometimes in the cosmetic chemistry lab, you can throw non-hazardous things like lip gloss and cane sugar into the trash. Other chemicals such as acids and bases (ex: sodium hydroxide and glycolic acid) should be disposed in a hazardous waste bottle.

    Dispose of this container properly once it's full.