Common Ingredient Names & Their Functions

Cosmetics | Hair Care | Fragrance | Food & Beverage

Cosmetics

  • Damask Rose Flower Oil

    antioxidant, perfuming, antimicrobial/antibacterial

  • skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant, surface hydrator

    High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa): surface hydrator, skin protectant, can help water-soluble actives penetrate deeper into skin

    Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin a little deeper mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)

  • helps to protect the skin from UV, extend product shelf life, color-protectant for products in clear packages

  • Enzacamene

    helps to protect the skin from UV rays/sunscreen agent, oil-soluble powder

    NOTE: This ingredient is slightly photo-unstable. It takes an hour to lose 10% of its efficacy and six hours to lose half of it.

  • Neo Heliopan AP, Bisdisulizole Disodium

    helps to protect the skin from UV rays

    Note: This ingredient has very low skin penetration and is approved to use up to 10% in the EU and pretty much everywhere else except for the United States.

  • EthyleneDiamineTetraacetic Acid

    reacts with metal ions (that usually come from water) and help to keep your formula stable.

  • masking, skin conditioning

  • anti-acne, soothing, deodorant

    NTOE: wound healing abilities

  • moisturizer/humectant, emollient, viscosity stability, glycerin based

  • moisturizer/humectant, emollient, deodorant

  • emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsion stabilising

  • Vitamin E Acetate

    antioxidant

  • emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing

    NOTE: white to beige/brown powder. NOTE: Known to be the gold standard of emulsifiers for emulsions (oil -in-water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize.

  • emollient

    NOTE: Clear, colorless, almost odorless oil

    NOTE: Spreads nicely and has a dry velvet finish. Great in combination with other sunscreen agents and helps to solubilize them. Also, it makes products feel lighter.

  • Octinoxate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate

    help to protect the skin from UV rays, clear, oil-soluble

    NOTE: This ingredient should be combined with other sunscreen agents to give stable and broad-spectrum protection.

  • Neo Heliopan AP, Bisdisulizole Disodium

    helps to protect the skin from UV rays

  • Chromium Oxide Green

    colorant

    NOTE: inorganic pigment that gives blue-green shades

  • CI 77019

    colorant

    NOTE: mineral powder

    NOTE: "base" material for composite pigments like the pearl-effect pigments.

  • Vitamin C, SAP

    antioxidant, anti-acne, antioxidant, collagen booster, and a skin brightener

  • Castor Oil

    emollient, perfuming

  • Jojoba Oil

    emollient

  • Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass

    soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant

  • Aqua

    solvent

    NOTE: if this is first on an ingredient list it’s the biggest thing out of all the other ingredients in the product.

  • Item description

    exfoliant, moisturizer/humectant, buffering

    NOTE: lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin

  • skin-identical ingredient, emollient, barrier repair and skin hydration

  • cell-communicating ingredient

  • abrasive/scrub, absorbent/mattifier

  • Turmeric Root Extract

    antioxidant, soothing, skin brightening, perfuming

  • skin conditioning

  • surfactant/cleansing, emulsion stabilising

  • Shea Butter

    emollient, viscosity controlling

  • cleansing, emulsifying, surfactant

  • surfactant/cleansing, viscosity controlling

  • Carnauba wax is derived from the leaves of a the Brazilian palm known as Copernicia cerifera (wax making).

    Form: Available from very dark intensive yellow to light beige color and is available as flakes, pellets or powder.

    INCI name: Copernicia cerifera cera

    Melting point: 80-86 oC

    Saponification value: 78-95 mg KOH/g

    Acid value: 2-15 mg KOH/g

  • Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. Like other acids used in skincare, it works as an exfoliant to help unclog pores and refine the skin’s surface, but it also does so much more.

  • Glycerin is a humectant that pulls water into the outer skin layer, helping to establish normal moisture balance and slowing the evaporation of water from your skin.

  • With a melting point at body temperature, shea butter is a plant-based butter that effortlessly absorbs, softening and smoothing your skin’s overall texture.

  • Naturally occurring in the body, ceramides bind skin cells together to fortify the skin’s moisture barrier, increasing hydration and preventing water loss for plump, glowing skin.

  • Dexpanthenol is a derivative of the essential nutrient vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid). Found in foods like salmon, avocados, and broccoli, vitamin B5 helps your body with important processes like metabolizing food into energy and producing hormones.

Hair Care

  • preservative

  • preservative

  • viscosity controlling agent

  • Jojoba Oil

    emollient

    NOTE: this ingredient is surprisingly not an oil but a wax ester

  • emollient, silicone, scar treatment

  • emollient

  • emollient, viscosity controlling, solvent

  • perfuming, deodorant

  • surfactant/cleansing, antistatic, conditioning

  • chelating

  • film forming

  • emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing

  • emulsifying

  • moisturizer/humectant

  • SLES

    surfactant/cleansing, emulsifying

  • emollient, emulsifier, and thickener

  • emulsifier and thickener

  • antimicrobial, irritant

  • colourless alkaline liquid, increases foaming capacity

  • salt, consistency thickener, drying

  • emollient

  • silicon-based polymer, lubricant, conditioning

  • This ingredient is an excellent deep conditioning agent because it is attracted to the higher negative charge of the damaged areas of the hair cuticle, and has very low thermal conductivity meaning it protects the cortex (inside the hair strand) from heat damage from heat tools.

  • antistatic, emollient

  • conditioning, silicon, water-soluble

  • This is a non-sulfate, derived from rapeseed oil. It is know for its effective detangling and hair shaft penetration abilities. It is an excellent moisturizer and conditioner but gentle on the hair and skin and won’t cause buildup.

  • A surfactant and anti-microbial agent. It reduces static and oil- trapped dirt build-up on the strands.

  • A water-soluble derivative of petroleum used for its conditioning properties.

  • Used as an emollient and texture enhancing agent in hair and skin care formulations. It leaves behind a silky texture simultaneously reducing the oily feeling.

Fragrance

  • Castor oil

    emollient, perfuming

  • perfuming, deodorant

  • Amyris is a genus flowering plant found in Haiti or South America that has a sweet and woody fragrance. It is commonly used as a cheaper alternative to sandalwood in perfumery since its has a very similar aroma.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Sweet, woody

  • perfuming

  • Calone is a synthetic chemical that adds a fresh water-like note to a fragrance. It has an intense “sea breeze” note with slight floral undertones. It is a very common perfume ingredient in water perfumes like Cool Water by Davidoff.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Watery, fresh

  • antimicrobial/antibacterial, solvent, viscosity controlling, astringent

  • This perfume ingredient is a balsamic-smelling resin from the Styrax tree found in Japan. Benzoin gives body to a perfume and usually has a rich fragrance that can smell like vanilla or balsamic making it sweetly seductive.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Rich, balsamic

  • preservative, deodorant

  • Fragrance, Parfum

    perfuming

  • Aldehydes are a group of synthetic perfume ingredients.

    According to Wikipedia, “An aldehyde is an organic compound containing a terminal carbonyl group. This functional group consists of a carbon atom bonded to a hydrogen atom with a single covalent bond and an oxygen atom with a double bond. Thus the chemical formula for an aldehyde functional group is -CH=O, and the general formula for an aldehyde is R-CH=O. The aldehyde group is occasionally called the formyl or methanol group. Other classes of organic compounds containing carbonyl groups include ketones and carboxylic acids.”

  • This strange perfume ingredient comes from the Castor beaver which is used to create a sweet and leathery aroma like in Etat Libre d’Orange’s Fils de Dieu. Naturally, this ingredient is from beaver secretion, but is often reproduced synthetically.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Vanilla, leathery

  • This ingredient in perfume is produced by a gland in the African civet cat’s tail. Civet in its purest form has an unpleasant and strong odor, but in small quantities can add depth and warmth to a musky fragrance.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Musky, warm

  • This perfume ingredient is another gum resin that comes from plants in the Apiaceae family which includes carrots, parsley and celery. It’s described to have a green, plant-like aroma that is very fresh and clean — perfect for a casual everyday fragrance.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Green, fresh

  • This aromatic compound is a synthetic perfume ingredient that has a fresh and floral scent. Hedione is often compared to the soft and fresh scent of jasmine and is oftentimes used as a cheaper alternative since jasmine is very expensive.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Fresh, floral

  • Iso E Super is a synthetic chemical that is used to create fullness to a fragrance. It has a woody and velvety aroma with amber notes which is both smooth and warm. It’s the perfect ingredient to accomplish a cozy and inviting oriental perfume.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Woody, amber

  • This perfume ingredient is found in the gum of the rockrose bush and is said to mimic the smell of ambergris with it’s sweet, earthy and woody fragrance. Labdanum is used to create leather notes in perfumes.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Sweet, earthy

  • Myrrh is an ancient gum resin found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. It has a rich and dark fruit fragrance and adds a warm, earthy and woody fragrance to perfumes and colognes.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Earthy, woody

  • This rare perfume ingredient is derived from the root of the iris plant. It has a heavy floral and woody scent that is described to be clean and refreshing.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Floral, woody

  • This expensive fragrant ingredient is from the wood of the Agar tree found mostly in Southeast Asia. Its aromatic resin is treasured by perfumers for its rare woody fragrance that has complex notes ranging from earthy sweet to slightly spicy.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Woody, earthy

  • Patchouli has a strong, musty-sweet smell that is commonly found in various scented products from fragrances and cosmetics to detergent and paper towels. It comes from a bushy shrub found in Malaysia and India

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Earthy, sweet

  • Tonka bean is from a plant native to Brazil that has a vanilla-sweet fragrance with hints of spices like cinnamon and clove. It originally was used as an alternative to vanilla, but has become popular on its own.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Vanilla, spicy

  • This perfume ingredient comes from a grass with heavy, fibrous roots which are used to distill an oil that smells extremely earthy. It contains fragrant undertones that are woody, leather and slightly smoky.

    Perfume Ingredient Scent: Earthy, woody

  • Acetone is used for extraction of essential oils and a constituent of liquid nail polish. Also. It is used in perfumes as it causes aroma.

  • “Linalool is a floral and spicy terpene alcohol. It is found in over 200 plants such as citrus fruits and lavender. Concentrations of linalool above 20 ppb have been shown to give a fruity hoppy aroma to beer.”

  • Labels containing just "Ethanol", "Ethyl Alcohol" at either 100% or 95% are recommended for perfumery recipes. If your label lists the ethanol at 95%, water should make up the remaining 5%. No other ingredients or additives other than pure ethanol are required for making safe homemade perfumes.

  • Ethyl acetate is also used in perfumes for several purposes. First, it can contribute to the perfume's aroma thanks to its sweet, fruity smell. In addition, ethyl acetate can evaporate on the skin, which allows the perfume's fragrance to stay on the skin without any unappealing residue.

    Perfume-Uses: Banana Bitter Almond Blackberry Tea Apple Top notes, Add-lift, Citrus, , Lemon, poor tenacity, poor alkali-stable as top note in fruity perfumes, Vinegar, Brandy, Berry, Banana, Grape, Peach, Whisky, Rum, Almond, Butterscotch, Cream Soda, Butter, Mint, Pear, Melon, Arak, Chewing-gum, Whisky

    Blends well with: Gums

  • A synthetic material found naturally in strong/sharp/sweet/bitter almond oil with notes of cherry. Used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan.

  • It's sometimes added to fragrance as a preservative. IARC has also listed acetaldehyde as a "probable human carcinogen".

  • Methylene chloride (also called dichloromethane), Act as solvent for other ingredients in perfume.

    Carcinogen.

  • Limonene is a thoroughly evaluated and commonly used fragrance ingredient. It is a scent ingredient and solvent naturally occurring in the rind of citrus fruit. Upon storage and exposure to sunlight and air, limonene degrades to various oxidation products which act as skin and respiratory irritants and sensitizers.

Food/Beverage

  • It is a colorless weak organic acid. It occurs naturally in citrus fruits, especially lemons and limes. It's what gives products their tart, sour taste. A manufactured form of citric acid is commonly used as an additive in food, cleaning agents, nutritional supplements, flavoring and preserving agent, especially in soft drinks and candies..

  • Potassium citrate is a potassium salt of citric acid and is used as a food preservative to control pH. It has a natural pH between 7.5 and 9 depending on the concentration. It is a natural preservative and is also used to add an acidic (sour) taste to foods and soft drinks.

    Potassium citrate binds to heavy metals, which can prevent fat oxidation. When fats are not able to oxidize, your food stabilizes and shelf life is therefore extended.

  • EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) is used as a preservative, stabilizer, and protects food products from discoloration and oxidation.

    NOTE: EDTA reacts negatively with Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and sodium bicarbonate in sodas and soft drinks, with higher propensity to form benzene, a carcinogen.

  • Malic acid is found in fruits such as grapes, watermelons, cherries, and in vegetables such as carrots and broccoli. This acid is mainly used in food & beverage applications including candy. It is the active ingredient in many sour or tart foods.

  • Xanthan gum is a popular food additive that's commonly added to foods as a thickener or stabilizer.

  • Natural flavors are extracted from plants and animals to create flavor enhancers that are used in processed foods.

    The term natural flavor or natural flavoring is defined by the FDA as "a substance extracted, distilled, or similarly derived from natural sources like plants (fruits, herbs, veggies, barks, roots, etc.) or animals (meat, dairy products, eggs, etc.) via a method of heating, with its primary function in food being flavoring not nutritional."

  • CMC/ Cellulose Gum is used for its thickening, emulsifying, stabilizing binding, thickening and swelling properties.

  • Stearic acid is found in various animal and plant fats, and is a major component of cocoa butter and shea butter. It is mainly used in the production of detergents, soaps, and cosmetics (shampoos, shaving cream products, etc.). It also helps products such as bars of soap, candles, oil pastels and hard candies retain their shapes.

  • Silicon dioxide/synthetic amorphous silica (SAS), is used by food & beverage manufacturers as an anti-caking agent and it also functions as a defoaming agent, carrier and conditioning agent.

  • Used to stabilize dough for baked goods

  • also known as vitamin B.

    additive is used to maintain freshness and prolong shelf-life for food

  • zero-calorie sweetener for sugar-free beverages, snacks, and other food items

  • Used to thicken salad dressings, dairy products, and sauces.

  • Added to food to fortify them with nutrients.

  • Emulsifier for foods that require the mixing of fat and liquid, like dressings, margarine, or butter.

  • Allulose is a low calorie sugar that is about 70% as sweet as sugar, which is similar to the sweetness of erythritol, another popular artificial sweetener.

  • Gum Acacia is used as a food stabilizer, emulsifier or thickener,. It is used to improve the texture of food & beverage products without affecting other qualities such as taste.

  • Glycerin is a type of carbohydrate called a sugar alcohol, or polyol.  It is a colorless, odorless, viscous liquid that is sweet-tasting and non-toxic. It contains slightly more calories per gram than sugar and is 60–75% as sweet. 

  • Corn starch is a common food ingredient, often used to thicken sauces or soups, and to make corn syrup and other sugars.

  • Used for thickening sauces, puddings, and gravies. One of the best industrial uses of maize starch powder is the baking industry where it is used it to improve the texture and tenderness of cakes.

  • It is a sweetener derived from corn syrup, which is processed from corn. It's used to sweeten processed foods and soft drinks.

  • Partially Hydrogenated Oil (PHO) is vegetable oil in a solid form at room temperatures and is high in trans fat.

  • Trans fat is considered the worst type of fat to eat. It is known to raise "bad" cholesterol and also lowers "good" cholesterol.

  • It is a salt of benzoic acid and is soluble in water, tasteless, and odorless. It has antifungal and antibacterial properties and is used as a preservative added to food in strictly defined doses. It inhibits the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold

  • Potassium benzoate is the potassium salt of benzoic acid, and is a food preservative that inhibits the growth of mold, yeast and some bacteria.

  • This is a common preservative that is used in cured meat products including bacon, deli meat, and jerky. This additive has been cut out from some foods due to these concerns.

  • Monosodium glutamate, also known as sodium glutamate, is the sodium salt of glutamic acid. It is found naturally in some foods including tomatoes and cheese in this glutamic acid form.

  • Probiotic bacteria can play a critical role in the fermentation process of dairy products and other fermented foods. They are found in yogurt and other fermented dairy products such as kefir, naturally aged cheese such as Gouda and foods like fermented soybean foods.

  • Prebiotic fibers passes through our digestive system with no immediate benefits to us, however, the “good” bacteria in the gut actually consume this type of fiber which can lead to better digestive health.

    Examples: Chicory root, Jerusalem artichoke, garlic, and leeks.

  • Soy Lecithin, or lecithin, is commonly used to hold emulsions together. It's also the main reason egg yolks work so well to stabilize mayonnaise, aiolis, and sauces like Hollandaise.